PARIS (FRANCE)

Why go?

“We’ll always have Paris,” says Bogie in Casablanca, because Paris is at once a film set (Grace Jones on the Eiffel Tower, Audrey Tautou in Montmartre, Audrey Hepburn in a St-Germain jazz cellar), one of the world's most beautiful cities (with its golden stone facades and famous monuments), and a vibrant, densely packed collection of villages.

But however well you think you know Paris, there’s always something new to discover. Districts change, old ones get restored, whole new areas like Seine Rive Gauche around the new Bibliothèque Nationale go up, there’s always a new bar or restaurant to check out, a new star baker, the latest gallery, no time more so than in the autumn when the city reawakes reinvigorated for la rentrée.

Behind the grandiose palaces and boulevards, you can discover intimate courtyards and gardens; behind historic façades are craft workshops and eminent research institutions. Perhaps the true clue to Paris’s appeal is that despite being one of the most visited cities in the world it is also intensely lived-in. With its flats, playgrounds, food markets and cafés, there is no empty heart in the centre; and you, too, can play at being a Parisian.

When to go

You can come to Paris any time but the atmosphere is quite different at different times of year. The autumn rentrée starts with a burst of energy for the new cultural season; winter is a time for festivals and feasting; May and June see Paris lazing into summer; while in August the capital slows down, a beach takes over the quays and you may be hard-pushed to find a Parisian around.

Getting around

Walking: Paris’s relatively compact size means that many things can be visited on foot - the best way to discover the city.

Public transport: A generally efficient public transport system is run by the RATP (ratp.fr), incorporating 14 metro lines, RER suburban expresses, buses and tramway. Between 12.30am and 6.30am Noctilien night buses operates from five hubs around the city.

Buy a carnet of 10 tickets (€13.70) valid on the métro, RER, bus and tram within central Paris, which is simpler and more economical than buying individual tickets (€1.70). It is generally better value, too, than Paris Visite passes, which include discounted entry to some tourist sights.

Bikes: if you’re brave, you can also try Vélib (velib.paris.fr), the enormously successful municipal bike hire scheme, with stations all around town.

One-day (€1.70) or seven-day (€8) subscriptions can be taken out on the spot or on the web with a credit card.

The first 30 minutes of each journey are free, then it’s €1 for the next 30 minutes and rates rise sharply thereafter. There is a growing number of cycle lanes – but note that, while some are dedicated, others are perilously shared with buses and taxis.

Taxis: these can be hailed in the street or at taxi ranks, but  are often in short supply as they tend to congregate at the airports and mainline stations.

A white light on the roof indicates that the taxi is free. A new, more visible, system is currently being introduced, with a green light when the taxi is free and red light when it is taken. Central call centre: 00 33 1 45 30 30 30. G7 taxis switchboard (in English): 00 33 1 41 27 66 99.

Driving: a recent enquiry declared Paris to be Europe’s most traffic-jammed capital. Even so, mastering the Arc de Triomphe, where priorité à droite (priority for vehicles coming in from the right) still holds, is an experience all of its own. However, a car can be useful for venturing outside the city. The main car hire companies have branches at the main train stations.

Know before you go

Essential contacts (All numbers should be prefixed by 0033 unless otherwise stated)

British Embassy/Consulate (00 33 1 44 51 31 00; ukinfrance.fco.gov.uk). For passports and most other visitor services, contact the consulate at 15 rue d’Anjou (same telephone number) rather than the embassy.
Office du Tourisme de Paris (00 33 1 49 52 42 63; parisinfo.com), 25 rue des Pyramides, 75001 Paris.
Ambulance (samu): Dial 15.
Police: Dial 17.
Fire (pompiers): Dial 18.
Emergency services from mobile phone: Dial 112.

The basics

Currency: Euro.
Telephone code: From abroad, dial 00 33, then leave off the zero at the start of the 10-figure number. Most Paris numbers start with 01; mobile phone numbers start with 06; numbers beginning 08 are special-rate numbers, ranging from 0800 freephone to premium-rate calls.
Time difference: +1 hour.
Travelling times: London to Paris by Eurostar takes 2hr 15min. Flying time is about one hour.

Local laws and etiquette

When greeting people, formal titles (Monsieur, Madame and Mademoiselle) are used much more in French than in English.

The laws of vouvoiement (which version of “you” to use) take years to master. If in doubt – except when talking to children or animals – always use the formal vous form (second person plural) rather than the more casual tu.

When driving, it’s compulsory to keep fluorescent bibs and a hazard triangle in the car in case of breakdown.